Travelling with Mercury

Mercury is the patron of travellers, so in my department he is in charge of the travel section.

You can read straight through, or simply open a post at random (Mercury is the god of luck, after all) and follow the links to earlier, later and related pieces until you have had enough.

🇦🇲Armenia — 🇧🇾Belarus — 🇪🇹Ethiopia — 🇰🇿Kazakhstan — 🇷🇺Russia — 🇷🇸Serbia — 🇹🇳Tunisia — 🇹🇷Türkiye — and everywhere else!


Hestia’s Hearth — 🇹🇷Türkiye

This is where most of the material is, so it is divided by geographical region:

Hayk’s Anvil — Eastern Anatolia

(Van, Kars, Erzurum)

The Feline Olympus

The Feline Olympus

Felines rule the entirety of Türkiye. In some regions they are more numerous, in others

The Word That Was Demoted

The Word That Was Demoted

In the thirteenth century the Mongol Empire of Genghis Khan stretched from the South China

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Hellespontus’ Gates — Marmara Region

(Istanbul, Bursa, Thrace)

The Candid Faces of Rome

The Candid Faces of Rome

How I adore Roman portraits! Unlike their idealised Greek counterparts, they are brimming with life—somehow

Red Gold for Young Türkiye

Red Gold for Young Türkiye

Following centuries of military confrontation between the Ottoman and Russian Empires, Soviet Russia and Kemalist

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Pontus’ Emerald — Black Sea Region

(Trabzon)

For the Average Visitor

For the Average Visitor

At the entrance to the archaeology department of the Trabzon Museum the visitor is met

The Sun Has Set Here Before

The Sun Has Set Here Before

An ancient city on the shore of the Black Sea, at the foot of the

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Enki’s Cradle — South-Eastern Anatolia

The Upper Mesopotamia (Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa)

A Spoonful Closer to Home

A Spoonful Closer to Home

Today Türkiye marks the Commemoration of Atatürk, Youth and Sports Day. They do rather like

Cupid and Psyche: It’s Complicated

Cupid and Psyche: It’s Complicated

Edessa—not, one hastens to warn, to be confused with Odessa—is the ancient name of modern Şanlıurfa,

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Apollo’s Lyre — Aegean Region

(Ephesus)

The Feline Olympus

The Feline Olympus

Felines rule the entirety of Türkiye. In some regions they are more numerous, in others

O Fortuna!..

O Fortuna!..

Good afternoon. I am fifty years old and greedy for impressions. Collecting them is my


Dido’s Land — 🇹🇳Tunisia

A holiday trip that yielded more than expected.

Pollice verso

Pollice verso

Here I stand, amidst the weathered stones of an ancient Carthaginian amphitheatre—the very stage where

Memento Mori

Memento Mori

To bid farewell to the outgoing year—and good riddance to it—I’ve prepared a small selection

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Boreas’ Winds — 🇷🇺Russia

Not much here—because I now live in Türkiye, and writing about it is easier: it is right at hand.

Purity as the Handmaiden of Art

Purity as the Handmaiden of Art

Beauty, we are told, lies in the eye of the beholder. Yet the Kenozero exhibition

Windows on Kenozero

Windows on Kenozero

The creators of the Kenozero exhibition in Moscow achieved a complete, immersive illusion of the

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Tengri’s Steppes — 🇰🇿Kazakhstan

The Golden Crown of Soviet Alma-Ata

The Golden Crown of Soviet Alma-Ata

The Hotel Kazakhstan is widely regarded as one of the principal symbols of Almaty. Having

The Secrets of the Powder Box

The Secrets of the Powder Box

In the Museum of Almaty, amidst a display dedicated to the city in the latter

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Istrus’ Banks — 🇷🇸Serbia

An Ottoman Echo in the Culinary Code

An Ottoman Echo in the Culinary Code

Serbs will tell you with considerable pride about their heroic resistance and their eventual deliverance

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Cepheus’ Kingdom — 🇪🇹Ethiopia

We got to know its capital over New Year 2026.

Dust, Blossoms, and Vintage Ladas

Dust, Blossoms, and Vintage Ladas

At first glance, Addis Ababa feels like a living page out of Peter Kidi’s lines—where

Time Is Gold

Time Is Gold

In front of the National Museum of Ethiopia stands a monument. Emperor Haile Selassie aka


Vseslav’s Forests — 🇧🇾Belarus

Only two posts so far, but every journey starts somewhere.

On Ways, Quirks and Reversed Perspective

On Ways, Quirks and Reversed Perspective

Inscrutable, as we are so frequently reminded, are the ways of Providence. Having duly paid

No Neglect to Negliubka

No Neglect to Negliubka

I recently popped over to Minsk on business while I was in memleket. That is


Aramazd’s Gardens — 🇦🇲Armenia

Also just a little so far—but only so far, I hope.

Tainted Classics and Soviet Relics

Tainted Classics and Soviet Relics

We recently took a flight to Yerevan for the express purpose of visiting the Opera


Roadside Herms

Herms stood at crossroads—they did not lead you into a country, they simply marked that someone had passed this way. This is where places end up when they have only one post to their name, or half a post: not enough for a section of their own, but no reason to let them get lost either.

To Touch a Breath

To Touch a Breath

Tashkent in January. The Museum of Arts. An exhibition of contemporary South Korean art, which

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