Symposia in a museion

The word museum goes back to Greek μουσεῖον, which first meant a sanctuary of the Muses—a place where they led their dances, dances that were themselves called mouseia—by the same pattern as a Heraion (a temple of Hera) or a Serapeum (a temple of Serapis). Later it came to mean a “gathering” in the broadest sense: Plato, in the Phaedrus, uses it in the phrase “a gathering of [wise] speeches” (μουσεῖα λόγων).

On this blog, the Museion is a very wide section indeed. On its own it reports what I saw in the museums I visited—the modern heirs of those sanctuaries. But it also gathers into one virtual dance the Olympian patrons of its several subsections.

You can read straight through, or simply open a post at random and follow the links to earlier, later and related pieces until you have had enough.

🧑‍🎨Apollo — ✍️Calliope — 📜Clio — 🎭Euterpe — 🙏Polyhymnia — 🏗️Urania — ⚒Vulcan — and the 🏛️museums themselves!


🧑‍🎨Apollo—the fine arts

Painting, sculpture, drawing: everything people come to a museum to look at rather than to read.

On Ways, Quirks and Reversed Perspective

On Ways, Quirks and Reversed Perspective

Inscrutable, as we are so frequently reminded, are the ways of Providence. Having duly paid

Vera Against the Wind. Part 5, Allegorical

Vera Against the Wind. Part 5, Allegorical

The concluding gallery of the exhibition Vera Mukhina: Against the Wind is fittingly titled Allegory.

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✍️Calliope—writers

Poets and novelists, their houses, their manuscripts, their words.

The Sun Raskolnikov Saw

The Sun Raskolnikov Saw

At ten past nine on the evening of the 27th of May 2025, the sun

Secret Art Istanbul: The Museum in the Dockyards

Secret Art Istanbul: The Museum in the Dockyards

Most residents of Istanbul, and most inquisitive visitors, know the museum of contemporary art Istanbul Modern at

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📜Clio—historians

Calliope’s sister, entrusted with the past and with those who write it down.

Can’t Take My Eyes Off You… For Six Thousand Years

Can’t Take My Eyes Off You… For Six Thousand Years

This is precisely how we looked on returning from a week-long marathon through Gaziantep and

Potbelly Hill

Potbelly Hill

We have made it to Göbekli Tepe—which translates literally as “Potbelly Hill”—a site now vigorously

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🎭Euterpe—music and dance

Calliope’s sister, entrusted with the past and those who write it down.

Culture on the Edge of Agglutination

Culture on the Edge of Agglutination

A trip to the Atatürk Cultural Centre (AKM) at Taksim is invariably a bit of

Tainted Classics and Soviet Relics

Tainted Classics and Soviet Relics

We recently took a flight to Yerevan for the express purpose of visiting the Opera

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🙏Polyhymnia—solemn rites

Ceremony and ritual, religious ones among them, and whatever they have left behind in stone and in daily habit.

From Ice Cream to the Messiah

From Ice Cream to the Messiah

The conversation recently turned, as civilized discourses so often do on a sultry afternoon, to

Celestial Etymology

Celestial Etymology

As a recent discourse happily brought us to matters of the firmament, it seems a

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🏗️Urania—architecture

In my department the muse of astronomy also looks after what gets built on the ground.

The Golden Crown of Soviet Alma-Ata

The Golden Crown of Soviet Alma-Ata

The Hotel Kazakhstan is widely regarded as one of the principal symbols of Almaty. Having

How Does a Museum Speak?

How Does a Museum Speak?

…Through its exhibits. There are those for whom a museum remains mute until an official

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Vulcan—the crafts

Things made by hand and for the hand: clay, metal, cloth, tools.

No Neglect to Negliubka

No Neglect to Negliubka

I recently popped over to Minsk on business while I was in memleket. That is

Vera Against the Wind. Part 4, Vitreous

Vera Against the Wind. Part 4, Vitreous

In the first and second acts of our perambulations through the exhibition Vera Mukhina: Against

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The 🏛️museums themselves

The Museion began as a sanctuary and ended up as a building with a cloakroom and a ticket desk. This is what I saw in the museums as museums: arranged by gallery rather than by theme.

Birch in the Steppe

Birch in the Steppe

When I first laid eyes on this artifact in the Central Museum of Kazakhstan, I

For the Average Visitor

For the Average Visitor

At the entrance to the archaeology department of the Trabzon Museum the visitor is met

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