Scratch a Moscow Street, Find a Tatar
“Scratch a Russian and you will find a Tatar”—a line variously pinned on Napoleon and…
Clio
This category is about history.
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Not Made in Damascus
Last time we went through the Kütahya crockery and the words hiding inside it. But…
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A Lemon from Malabar
We are still in the Tiled Kiosk. Last time it was İznik, with its two…
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The Saint Who Was a Noun
Every visitor to Hagia Sophia arrives, sooner or later, at the same question, usually asked…
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Cat on a Hot Tile
Last time I promised to get round to the collections, so let us begin with…
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A Palace Called Kiosk
We found ourselves, as one does, at the Istanbul Archaeology Museum. Or rather museums: the…
