A Madrasa Named After a Ruby
Rather a long one today, I am afraid, but it is all so interesting. Do…
Clio
This category is about history.
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How Do You Get to Erzurum?
The Seljuks came to the Armenian Highland on horseback. They even recorded the process for…
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The Sun Has Set Here Before
An ancient city on the shore of the Black Sea, at the foot of the…
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The Chorus That Stayed Behind
Coming into central Trabzon from the west, the traveller is met by these two dancers—metal,…
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Gilgameş: An Exhumation in Three Acts
Last night I attended the world premiere of Ahmet Adnan Saygun‘s opera Gilgameş (1964–83), given…
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Thirteen Stone Warriors
A room of its own in the Van Museum holds a baker’s dozen of stone…
